Cycling through the French inferno
Our last blog followed us right up to the first rest day in Aurillac. A welcome break and a chance to re-group. Stage 10 was the only stage of the tour where the group was made up solely of Grand Loopers – those riding all 21 stages of the tour. It’s great to have one stage in the tour for them to relax together, evaluate how far they’ve come together so far, and take the long view on the remaining kms that lie between them and Paris. They’re always a fantastic bunch of like-minded people. By now, the group has settled into natural sub-groups on the road based on speed and/or approach to this challenge. Some ride hard to get to the hotel as quickly as possible for maximum recovery time. Others take their time, stopping at various ‘watering holes’, taking photos, having fun. There’s no right or wrong way to do this – you ride the way that makes sense to you.
In Vichy we were joined by the next wave of fresh blood! All our Second Half Loopers, plus those riding the Double (2 stages) and Double Double (4!). They benefit from joining a tour that has really got into its groove. Follow a Grand Looper each morning (breakfast, sort luggage, check bike etc) and you won’t go far wrong.
Stage 11 and 12 were a real treat, with several Alumni returning in groups, as well as William’s brothers (and Trustees of WWMT) Monty and Rick Wates. Brilliant to have them both with us! These stages were flat-ish, but the heat and headwind made them hard going. Particular shout out to Kysha who completed her first 100 miler on stage 11 … and repeated that on stage 12! Chapeau!
I can’t really go further at this point without mentioning the heat which is … like an inferno! It’s been described as akin to riding into a hair dryer. Where there are opportunities to stop between our 4 daily feedstops for extra ice creams, bags of ice cubes (shoved down jerseys), water fountains or troughs, the wise take full advantage! To be riding 100+ miles a day in this level of heat puts a whole new slant on what is already a hugely challenging undertaking. We have nothing but respect for the sheer grit and determination of our Loopers. Heroes, every one.
The brutality of the soaring temperatures is balanced by the superb atmosphere in the group – where riders support and encourage each other, laugh at every opportunity and approach the challenges with a ‘glass half full’ attitude.
No gentle introduction for our new arrivals – this is how we roll. As one rider put it:
“Rolling through endless golden gallic countryside; baking in the ‘canicule’ (heatwave); laughing at the irony of riding through a village whose name (Fours) when translated is ‘ovens’; racing as “full gas” … so much to remember … but now we turn our gaze upwards … towards the hills and mountains ahead”.
Having said goodbye to our Double Loopers at the end of stage 12, but welcomed our brave Mountains Week Loopers, we braced ourselves for the longest stage of this year’s tour: 205km from Dole to Belfort. The agricultural countryside is parched and golden, dotted with gorgeous towns and villages. Every rider understand that the final stage of this ride was the tough part – not enormous climbs like we’ll see in the Alps, or experienced in the Pyrenees – but enough to have us slowly panting uphill to the finish. But our reward … 2 nights in the same hotel! The sheer luxury of not having to pack bags is not to be understated.
We headed into the beautiful Vosges region for stage 14. A cracking day on the bike and a fitting finale for our Double Double Loopers – their last of 4 solid stages of the 2026 route. We love it when the tour passes through the Jua – it’s such an unexpected gem for anyone who’s discovering it for the first time. Wooded hillsides (providing shade on the climbs!), balcony roads, open prairie on the higher grounds and wonderful whooping descents.
And finally onto stage 15 – the last before our 2nd and final rest day. No one said this would be easy – and stage 15 really did test us to our limits. A stunning day with 2 significant climbs – each beautiful – the first with the added benefit of a whooping descent. Then through the lowlands that by mid afternoon were a furnace, before an extra water stop added in before the final climb of the day.
This last 11km of ascent on perfect tarmac took us to the glorious Plateau de Solaison. We began in woodland providing shade from the early evening sun, eventually breaking out onto a stunning balcony road with vertiginous views towards the Mont Blanc Massif.
Eventually we popped out onto the wide open plateau surrounded by stunning mountain peaks, to enjoy dinner on a terrace as the sun went down, watching the alpenglow on the surrounding peaks and cheering in the riders as they gradually arrived. A good meal and the odd beer in recognition of the rest day to follow, then onto a coach for the final transfer into Chambery. That was a long long stage – and the rest day is an absolute necessity. We need some time resting, out of the heat and sun, refuelling and re-grouping before the final leg of this tour through the Alps and on to Paris.
Vive Le Tour!
